Millets in medieval India: How an ancient superfood endured and flourished

Millets, often referred to as “super grains,” have been a cornerstone of Indian agriculture and nutrition for thousands of years. These drought-resistant crops, including pearl millet (bajra), sorghum (jowar), and finger millet (ragi), thrived in the subcontinent’s challenging climates, sustaining millions. Millets in medieval India: How an ancient superfood endured and flourished

During Medieval India, encompassing the pre-Mughal and Mughal eras, agriculture evolved with new irrigation techniques, trade influences, and shifts in crop preferences. Despite the focus on rice and wheat in elite and urban diets, millets held their ground, becoming a symbol of resilience and sustenance for rural communities. This blog delves into how millets adapted to the changing times and continued to flourish.

Millets in the pre-Mughal era

Before the Mughal Empire’s rise, the pre-Mughal era (roughly 8th to early 16th century) featured decentralized kingdoms and agrarian economies. Millets were a staple crop, particularly in dry and semi-arid regions like Rajasthan, Gujarat, and parts of South India.

Millets in medieval India - Why millets thrived in pre-Mughal India:

1. Adaptability to harsh climates: Millets required minimal water, making them ideal for regions with unpredictable rainfall.

2. Nutritional value: Packed with protein, fiber, and essential micronutrients, millets provided balanced nutrition for agrarian communities.

3. Low-cost cultivation: Farmers could grow millets without fertilizers or extensive irrigation, making them economical for small-scale agriculture.

During this period, millets played a vital role in rural diets, ensuring food security for millions. Kingdoms often relied on them during droughts or food shortages, recognizing their value in sustaining populations.

The Mughal era: Agricultural innovation and shifts

The Mughal Empire (1526–1857) transformed Indian agriculture with large-scale irrigation projects, trade expansion, and the introduction of Persian techniques like the qanat system (underground water channels). These innovations boosted the production of water-intensive crops like rice and wheat.

While urban and royal diets shifted towards luxurious grains like basmati rice and refined wheat, millets continued to dominate rural landscapes. Farmers in semi-arid regions relied on millets as they adapted to Mughal tax systems and trade networks.

Millets in medieval India - How millets persisted during the Mughal era:

1. Rural dependence: In areas with limited irrigation, millets remained the backbone of agriculture. Farmers grew them to feed their families and trade locally.

2. Drought resistance: Frequent droughts made millets indispensable for survival in regions like the Deccan Plateau and western India.

3. Adaptation to local cuisine: While Mughal cuisine focused on rich gravies and breads like naan, rural communities fused millet rotis with Mughal-inspired curries, blending traditions.

The role of millets in medieval Indian diets

Urban vs. Rural consumption: Urban centers, influenced by Mughal cuisine, prioritized wheat and rice, which were considered prestigious. Royal kitchens crafted elaborate dishes like biryani and pulao, sidelining millets. However, rural India continued to embrace millets in everyday meals, from porridge to flatbreads.

Symbol of food security: Millets were a reliable food source during times of scarcity. Their long shelf life and resistance to pests made them ideal for storage and sustenance during famines.

Cultural and ritual significance: In many regions, millets were associated with traditional festivals and rituals. For instance, ragi and bajra were often prepared during harvest celebrations, maintaining their cultural importance.

Imported oils and their impact on Indian cuisine

Medieval India also witnessed the introduction of various oils through trade, enriching the culinary landscape. These oils, though secondary to millets, played a significant role in complementing local diets.

1. Olive oil: Introduced from Persia and Arabia, olive oil was valued for its medicinal properties and skincare benefits. However, it was rarely used for cooking, as it did not align with traditional Indian methods.

2. Sesame oil: Native to India but refined further through Persian trade, sesame oil became a staple in religious rituals and cooking, especially in southern and western India.

3. Mustard oil: Common in northern India, mustard oil gained prominence through Central Asian trade. Its strong flavor made it ideal for pickles and curries, becoming a favorite in Mughal kitchens.

4. Coconut oil: Enhanced by maritime trade, coconut oil thrived in coastal regions like Kerala and Tamil Nadu. Its versatility made it essential for cooking, skincare, and rituals.

5. Linseed oil: Imported from Central Asia, linseed oil was primarily used for industrial purposes, such as lamps and wood preservation, rather than culinary applications.

Millets in modern India: A Revival

After centuries of being overshadowed by rice and wheat, millets are making a comeback. Recognized for their nutritional benefits and sustainability, they are now being promoted as “climate-resilient crops.”

Key Factors driving millet revival:

1. Health awareness: As people seek healthier diets, millets are gaining popularity for their high fiber, protein, and gluten-free properties.

2. Government initiatives: Campaigns like the International Year of Millets 2023, led by the United Nations, have brought global attention to these grains.

3. Sustainability: Millets require less water and are more resilient to climate change, making them a smart choice for sustainable agriculture.

Legacy of millets in medieval India

Millets have endured through centuries of changing agricultural priorities, from the decentralized kingdoms of the pre-Mughal era to the centralized Mughal administration. Their adaptability, nutritional value, and cultural significance ensured their survival and relevance.

As we rediscover the value of millets in modern times, their story reminds us of the resilience and sustainability embedded in Indian agricultural traditions. From feeding rural communities to providing a lifeline during droughts, millets have left an indelible mark on India’s history.

Bibliography

1. Habib, Irfan. (2012). The Agrarian System of Mughal India 1556-1707 (Third Edition). Oxford University Press.
2. Eaton, Richard. (2019). India in the Persianate Age: 1000–1765. Penguin.
3. Arnold, David. (2010). The Tropics and the Traveling Gaze. University of Washington Press.
4. Kumar, Dharma (1965). Land and Caste in South India. Cambridge University Press.

Image Courtesy: ACCENTERRA

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